Bordeaux Is Still King

Last April, we made a triumphant return to the Bordeaux region of France for a whirlwind tour, visiting over 50 estates and tasting over 100 wines per day. In the 15 years since our last visit, we travelled through France, Italy, Greece, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Spain,

California, Oregon, Washington and the Finger Lakes, to enhance our knowledge and hone our tasting skills. After this intensive, all-consuming expedition, it was clear to us that the Bordeaux region had even further improved its legendary quality and had cemented its centuries-old regal status as the most collectible wine in the world. The proof was in the glass!

An Extensive History

After 2000 years of grape growing and winemaking, Bordeaux is indeed still king, making it extra exciting to share both new and older vintages here at home in Spring Lake. These historic wines have multi-layered richness, aromatic intensity and wonderful balance. When a red wine has ripe lush fruit, smooth tannins and an underlying freshness that keeps you coming back for more, that’s a great wine. With legions of Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Red Blend’ and classic European wine lovers, there is a big audience for this noble wine.

Bordeaux is where the Cabernet Sauvignon grape was “born.” The place where the Merlot grape originated. And the place where the true mastery of blending was invented. The Bordelais also have their native grapes of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, which are used in varying degrees to add aromatics, tannin, color and/or refinement. But the primary grapes remain Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

On the Left Bank of the Gironde River, the wines are made of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac, Saint Estèphe and Saint Julien, creating full-bodied, concentrated reds with rich tannins and ultra long aging potential. In Margaux, Médoc and Graves you see about equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot appear along with those aforementioned ‘blending’ grapes. On the Right Bank of the Gironde River, the wines are made of mostly Merlot from famous areas such as Pomerol and Saint Émilion. These Merlots have long held luxury status and are not to be confused with inexpensive, commercial New World imitations.

Why Is Bordeaux Better Than Ever?

One big difference is a more region-wide commitment to farming with sustainable and organic methods. In our early years of travelling, it was the Burgundy region (the queen to Bordeaux’s king) that was obsessed with organic and biodynamic methods. This more universally natural approach in the last 25 years in Bordeaux has influenced soil studies and re -plantings of grape varieties, creating more balanced blends; lowering yields and producing less but even better wines and showcasing more terroir, whether it be rocky gravel, limestone, clay and/or sandy soils.

Another reason is the abandonment of vintners trying so hard to please influential wine writers, who in the entire decade of the aughts and beyond, encouraged big, jammy, large-scaled wines from everywhere. The point system can make or break small vineyards and promotes sales for famous wines when they receive high points. Luckily, there seems to be a move away from this strategy for everyone from the growers to the critics. On this trip, we found the wines to be so exquisitely elegant and balanced across the board. On top of that, you can find so many delicious, complex reds from $15 to 30. Why would someone drink an ordinary, mass-produced, ‘one note’ kind of red, when you can drink a charming, chic and flavorful Bordeaux? Jump up to $30 to 50 for a bottle and whoa! You’re on a whole other level. And finally, if you want to lay wine down, Bordeaux is simply the best option for a wine cellar. Good Bordeaux wines last for 20 to 40 years depending on the vintage. The top châteaux are world renowned, sought-after by collectors and brimming with excellence.

We still can’t believe it has been a full year since we re-visited the historic vineyards and city of Bordeaux. It has been incredible to relive these memories, share some insights and hopefully inspire wine lovers to discover, or perhaps re-discover these sublimely special wines. You can find the following wines at The Bottle Shop in Spring Lake. Stop in and find your next favorite Bordeaux!

TOP 25 ESTATES VISITED:

• Château Montrose

Saint Estèphe

• Château Calon Ségur

Saint Estèphe

• Château Cos D’Estournel

Saint Estèphe

• Château Latour

Pauillac

• Château Pontet Canet

Pauillac

• Château Lynch Bages

Pauillac

• Château Pichon Baron

Pauillac

• Château Pichon Lalande

Pauillac

• Château Grand Puy Lacoste

Pauillac

• Château Gloria

Saint Julien

• Château Beychevelle

Saint Julien

• Château Léoville Barton

Saint Julien

• Château Ducru Beaucaillou

Saint Julien

• Château Léoville Las Cases

Saint Julien

• Château Margaux

Margaux

• Château Giscours

Margaux

• Château Brane Cantenac

Margaux

• Château La Mission Haut Brion

Graves

• Château Smith Haut Lafitte

Graves

• Château Pape Clement

Graves

• Château Carbonnieux

Graves

• Château Vieux Château Certan 

Pomerol 

• Château Figeac

Saint Émilion 

• Château Angélus 

Saint Émilion 

• Château Cheval Blanc 

Saint Émilion

TOP 10 BORDEAUX VALUES:

Ronan Bordeaux 2018: $15

Made by Château Clinet in Pomerol, Ronan is 100% Merlot from Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Bourg and Lussac St-Emilion.

Cap Royal Médoc 2018: $17

Made by Château Pichon Baron in Pauillac, Cap Royal is a classic oak aged Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot blend from the Médoc.

Château Teyssier Montagne Saint Émilion 2019: $25

Dating back to the 15th century, today this family estate is fully organic with mostly Merlot planted along with Cabernet Franc.

Château du Basque Saint Émilion 2019: $28

A prestigious grand cru estate with very old vines of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is rich, round, silky and mouth filling.

Château Calon Ségur ‘Le C’ Saint Estèphe 2019: $35

Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this has plum, blackcurrant, violet and licorice notes.

Château Durfort Vivens ‘Les Plantes’ Margaux 2019: $35

A phenomenal way to find value, hunt down second labels made with the same care and quality, meant for younger drinking.

Château Rouget Pomerol 2019: $35

A Bottle Shop exclusive, you cannot find a luxurious, renowned Pomerol at this price anywhere. Pure velvet in the mouth.

Château Loudenne Médoc 2020: $40

A Château built in the 17th century that is near and dear to our hearts. About 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Classy.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte ‘Le Petit’ Graves: $40

Vines were first planted here in 1365 on a gravelly plateau called Lafitte. Today products are made by the wonderful Cathiard family. Organic.

Château Gloria Saint Julien 2020: $60

A perennial must-buy, when we visited Gloria, the winemaker could not be nicer or more humble, and the wines are excellent.

BY CYNTHIA A. MURRAY