Fire up the Grill

One of my favorite things to do in the summer is outdoor cooking. When the weather is nice, I cook almost every meal outside, and grilling is something most everyone has access to. Over the years, my brother Mike, who’s earned the title of “Grill Master” in our family, has passed along some great tips. Combined with plenty of practice, I’ve learned that heat and technique are everything. Unlike cooking indoors, the grill leaves nowhere to hide. You either hit the mark or you don’t.

Chicken Thighs: High Heat is the Secret

My brother Mike gave me a fabulous recipe for grilled boneless, skinless chicken thighs, and the secret is simple: high heat. Get one side of your grill up to about 500° or more, and leave the burners off on the other side. That two-zone setup is key.

Make sure you use marinated chicken. I keep a small food processor just for marinades; it’s easy to clean and easy to grab. I usually throw in fresh scallions, scapes from the garden, garlic, onion, and whatever else is growing, along with good olive oil, soy sauce, a little mirin, and maybe a splash of vinegar. You can also use Greek yogurt with your favorite spices, as the yogurt breaks down the fibers and does a wonderful job tenderizing chicken. One note of caution: if you use vinegar, marinate for only an hour or two, or the chicken will get stringy. For a longer marinade, leave out the acid.

Place the thighs on the hot side and let them cook for 3 to 4 minutes on the first side, then flip for another 2 minutes. Transfer to the indirect side for a final 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the thighs. Before you put anything on the grill, run a cut onion across the hot grates. It cleans them naturally, adds flavor, and smells amazing.

Pork Tenderloin: Handle with Care

I recently made pork carnitas for a group of friends, and the secret to that recipe is starting with high heat to seal in the juices, then lowering the temperature and closing the lid. Depending on the size of the tenderloin, it takes about 10 to 12 minutes, but you need to babysit it the whole time, so pour yourself a glass of wine and pay attention.

People tend to overcook tenderloins, end up with a tough and chewy bite, and then blame the cut. It’s given pork tenderloin an unfair reputation. Handle it with care, and it’s one of the juiciest things you can put on a grill. A little pink in the middle is perfectly fine, as long as you’ve hit the right internal temperature. And remember, meat continues to rise about 5 degrees after it comes off the heat. As hungry as you are, let it rest for at least 5 minutes. That’s what keeps it tender and juicy.

Learning to “Feel” the Meat

One of Mike’s best pieces of advice was to learn to feel when the meat is done. I didn’t understand what that meant until I’d grilled enough to get it. With practice, you develop a sense for that perfect window, not overcooked, not undercooked.

A classic chef trick: use the muscle between your thumb and index finger as a reference. Make a fist and press that muscle; if it’s firm, it’s a medium- to medium-well steak. Relax your fist but keep your thumb touching your index finger, and that softness compares to medium-rare. Many steakhouses rely on this method because constantly probing with a thermometer draws out the natural juices. You’ll also want to pull your meat slightly before it reaches your desired doneness, since it will keep cooking while it rests.

Steaks: The Crown Jewel

No grilling article is complete without talking about steaks. I love flat irons, New York strips, and tomahawks. You want the heat around 450° when the steaks go on for a good sear, then lower to about 300° and grill until they feel done. I press lightly with my finger, and for me, a perfect medium- to medium-rare is when my finger sinks about halfway as deep as it did when the meat was raw.

Whole Spatchcock Chicken

Grilling a whole chicken is one of my favorites, and I always spatchcock it, removing the backbone and laying it flat. Sear it on the hot side at about 500° for roughly two minutes per side, then transfer it skin-side up into an aluminum pan on the indirect side and close the lid. The result is crispy skin and juicy meat. I like adding a splash of vinegar and a little salt to the pan for extra flavor. For doneness, a meat thermometer is your best friend here, until you’ve grilled enough to just feel it.

The grill is endlessly versatile: seafood, vegetables, stuffed mushrooms (a personal favorite) all work beautifully. Just remember, heat is key, and technique is everything.

Have fun out there this summer.

The Grilled Artichoke: An Homage to Houston’s

My favorite appetizer in Florida is the grilled artichoke with remoulade at Houston’s, and I’ve been trying to recreate it at home for years. Here’s my version.

Start by boiling the artichokes in lemon water until they’re tender, about 20 minutes. Cut them in half, remove the choke (the needle-like fibers in the center), and place them on a hot grill leaf-side down for 1 to 2 minutes, then flip to the inside for another minute or two. Wait until they come off the grill before brushing with olive oil. If you brush while they’re on the grate, you’ll get flare-ups. (I do love putting those out with a quick splash from my water bottle, but it’s better to avoid them.)

For the remoulade, blend good mayonnaise, fresh garlic, Dijon mustard, relish, capers, and anchovies. It’s fantastic, and it pairs perfectly with the smoky, slightly charred artichoke leaves.

This one’s worth the extra effort.